A Cultural Melting Pot

By Susan Mills

Restaurants USA, May 2000 -- A complex and dynamic part of the restaurant industry, ethnic restaurants often present consumers with their first impression of a particular culture's food. The National Restaurant Association's Ethnic Cuisines I - an analysis of the Association's second nationwide survey asking U.S. consumers about their ethnic-food experiences - reveals which ethnic foods have become mainstream and which are gaining in popularity.

Driven by consumers who are eager for new experiences and by new immigrants to the United States, the market for ethnic restaurants and cuisines grew a great deal in the 1990s. In fact, the market for ethnic food has grown to such an extent that Italian, Mexican and Chinese (Cantonese) cuisines have joined the mainstream, according to the National Restaurant Association's latest consumer study, Ethnic Cuisines II.* Identified as the best-known ethnic cuisines in a 1994 survey, those three cuisines have become so ingrained in American culture that they are no longer considered ethnic.

Ethnic goes mainstream

Ethnic Cuisines II reveals that, compared with 1994 data, six cuisines have enjoyed significant growth in popularity — Italian, Mexican, Japanese (sushi), Thai, Caribbean and Middle Eastern. In contrast, four cuisines — French, German, Scandinavian and Soul Food — show a decline in popularity.

Consumer attitudes toward ethnic cuisines shifted in the 1990s. Today, people don't feel as strongly about ethnic cuisines, because such foods have become more commonplace, more available and are found more often at nonethnic restaurants. Because of increased familiarity, ethnic foods are continually becoming more mainstream. Except in Korean, Indian, Thai and Japanese (sushi) cuisines, the importance of authenticity has also lessened.

Focus on overall experience

For restaurateurs, the most important outcome of assimilation of ethnic cuisines into American culture is that consumers now judge ethnic restaurants by the same yardstick that they apply to other establishments. At one time, it seemed that consumers were willing to trade off less-than-excellent service and atmosphere for an opportunity to try something new and exotic. However, this is no longer the case.

No matter how exotic or familiar the cuisine, today's consumer desires a good overall restaurant experience. Friendly, attentive service, flavorful food and a good atmosphere are just as critical to the success of an ethnic restaurant as they are to any establishment.

Appealing to the consumer

Ethnic Cuisines II reveals that cuisines have different profiles — some are seen by consumers as exotic or innovative but others aren't. Moreover, the study reveals certain themes or patterns of appeal.

Basic Family appeal represents the "safe" core of the ethnic-cuisines market — traditional Italian, basic Mexican and Cantonese Chinese — that appeals to almost all consumers. Those cuisines are highly familiar and are perceived as a great value for the price, good for eating out with children and good for carryout. Thus, they are chosen regularly by consumers.
Traditional Fine Dining appeal, with few specific cues, is not exclusive to ethnic cuisines, although some French and upscale Italian restaurants have this appeal. Generally, those cuisines attract an older urban clientele and are perceived as good for formal or social occasions; rich, indulgent food for a splurge; irresistible desserts; drinks are important; and not a great value.
Old-World Traditional appeal is a segment that is losing interest, especially among younger consumers. German and Scandinavian cuisines are the clearest examples, although Soul Food and Greek, when perceived in this manner, also run the risk of having declining interest from consumers. Perceptions suggest rich, indulgent foods; good, hearty portions; and irresistible desserts. On the other hand, those cuisines are not difficult to prepare at home, are fairly static in terms of offerings and don't appeal to adventurous diners.
Authentic & Mild appeal is especially represented by Japanese cuisines — sushi and other dishes — and secondarily by Middle Eastern cuisine. Younger, upscale consumers are most interested in those types of foods. In terms of perceptions only, authentic restaurants do a really good job of preparing those types of foods; mild, pleasant flavors and beautiful presentations characterize the food. Moreover, those cuisines are difficult to prepare at home.
Adventurous & Spicy appeal is especially relevant to consumers most involved with ethnic cuisines. It can be found in Indian, Korean, Thai, and, to a lesser degree, Vietnamese and Chinese (Hunan, Mandarin or Szechwan) restaurants. Those cuisines appeal to adventurous eaters and are perceived as being full of surprises. The foods are characterized as hot and spicy with unique flavors and are difficult to prepare at home. Consumers believe that only authentic restaurants do a really good job of preparing those dishes.
Convenience & Value appeal is inherent in all Chinese cuisines and, to a degree, other Asian cuisines as well as Mexican food. Those cuisines appeal to most consumers but are especially attractive to those people who use ethnic cuisines primarily for convenience. This appeal is associated with being a great value, good for carryout and good for vegetarians.
Festive appeal is an important driver in a number of ethnic cuisines, especially Mexican, Cajun/Creole and Caribbean. Spanish restaurants appear to draw business with this appeal as well. The food and the mood at those types of restaurants seem to work together to create the positive experience that consumers enjoy. The festive appeal is characterized by being good for celebrations; drinks that go with the food; rich, indulgent food; good, hearty portions; and hot, spicy food. Places that have this appeal put consumers in a good mood.
Innovative & Trendy appeal is inherent in upscale Italian cuisine, French cuisine and, to a degree, Spanish cuisine. Fusion cuisines — Mediterranean, Latin American and Pan Asia — derive an important part of their appeal from this dimension. Consumers attracted to innovative and trendy ethnic cuisines tend to be upscale and are not devoted to authenticity. Those cuisines are perceived to be always changing as chefs invent new dishes or modify traditional ones. They have lots of variety-something for everyone.

Ethnic-cuisine supporters

Consumers differ a great deal in terms of their interest, knowledge and use of ethnic cuisines, according to Ethnic Cuisines II. The study reveals a continuum, with consumers who are highly involved with a variety of ethnic cuisines at one end of the spectrum and consumers who eat Italian, Chinese and/or Mexican but little else at the other end. When consumer behavior — in terms of the number of cuisines in their repertoire and frequency of use — is combined with attitudes about ethnic cuisines, the study finds three levels of involvement, which each have two segments.

"Internationalists" and "urban professionals" are the two segments most involved with ethnic cuisines. They tend to be younger consumers living predominantly in major metropolitan areas. Internationalists are people who seek out foreign experiences. They are the most likely to seek out authenticity and are more inclined than others to have a taste for hot, spicy foods. Urban professionals tend to be somewhat older than internationalists. They like to experiment with new restaurants and cuisines, but they watch what they are eating and want menus to specify clearly what it is that they are eating.